Should You Clean And Oil A Firing Pin
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| I have an M&P9 that has about 2,500 rounds through it. I do the usual field strip and clean after every range outing, but have never cleaned the firing pivot and FP aqueduct. Is this something that needs to exist done regularly? Is it about time I do it now? If I do make clean it now tin can I only remove the pivot and spray it with some Gun Scrubber and spray the same through the channel? Then, what lube and how much do you lot all recommend. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. |
05-20-2011, 04:34 PM 
Firing Pin Cleaning and Lube 
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| I didn't practise mine until about 10K and didn't actually find much build upwards. No brass shavings just some carbon toward the end. You practice not desire to put lube in the channel. Information technology will cause more build up and create the potential for low-cal strikes. Just employ the gun scrubber (polymer safe since the aqueduct liner is plastic) and brush the firing pin. Employ q tips to clean the inner channel and pipe cleaner to clean the firing pin hole and the modest hole on the inner bottom of the slide. Dave |
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| D Rock, that is absolutely what I do. Those pipe cleaners work very well getting down in to the nooks & crannies and non expensive at all. |
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| Thanks D Rock. That'due south practiced to know. I guess I'll leave it for a while then. |
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| Quote: Originally Posted by D Stone I didn't do mine until most 10K and didn't really find much build up. No brass shavings just some carbon toward the end. You practise not want to put lube in the aqueduct. Information technology will cause more build up and create the potential for low-cal strikes. Just use the gun scrubber (polymer safe since the channel liner is plastic) and castor the firing pin. Use q tips to clean the inner channel and pipe cleaner to clean the firing pin hole and the small hole on the inner bottom of the slide. Dave And then I just took my brand new m&p9c apart for the kickoff time to see how difficult this task is, I see that the firing pin and channel is oiled well (pretty moisture). Yous say do not lube the channel?? I did have a missfire (calorie-free strike) at the range first fourth dimension out, was wondering if this could take been the cause. This misfire (winchester amo) I noticed a lite dent after firing, reloaded information technology once again then it finally fired. Maybe I should wipe this oil dry from my firing pin and channel or this could happen once more. Is this a common thing with M&P's? Last edited past Zeke2839; 05-21-2011 at 08:28 AM. |
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| Zeke2839, that'southward interesting. I was just reading a thread on Glock Talk nigh the same thing. Oil or whatever in the fireing pin channel on new pistols. I didn't particular my Glock until about 1K rounds and found no oil in the channel then and so if information technology was there it worked it's mode out. The armorer'south manuals actually list light strike problems as being caused in part past carbon build up due to oil or cleaning fluid in the firing pivot channel. That's where the no oil in the channel rule comes from. I think the manual also tells you not to lube that area too. On Glock Talk they figured it was either from manufacturing or from an over eager gun shop employee oiling things. I discount the final one since my shops don't break the seal on the box until the sale. I've got the word out to my friends who buy new Glocks and now Grand&Ps to check before they fire. I don't call back it'southward a trouble but I'm curious. I estimate the manufacturers tell you to make clean before firing just they don't tell you lot to detail information technology. Dave |
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| Blow it out with something like 3M Loftier Power Brake Cleaner spray. |
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| Quote: Originally Posted by D Stone Zeke2839, that's interesting. I was merely reading a thread on Glock Talk well-nigh the same thing. Oil or any in the fireing pin channel on new pistols. I didn't detail my Glock until well-nigh 1K rounds and found no oil in the channel then so if it was at that place it worked it'due south way out. The armorer's manuals really list lite strike problems equally being caused in part by carbon build upwards due to oil or cleaning fluid in the firing pin channel. That's where the no oil in the channel rule comes from. I recall the manual as well tells yous non to lube that surface area as well. On Glock Talk they figured it was either from manufacturing or from an over eager gun shop employee oiling things. I discount the last one since my shops don't break the seal on the box until the auction. I've got the discussion out to my friends who buy new Glocks and now Thousand&Ps to check earlier they fire. I don't think it'south a trouble but I'm curious. I estimate the manufacturers tell you to clean before firing simply they don't tell yous to item information technology. Dave My new 9c only has about 100 rds through it, then information technology may be a little muddy... but non much. Now that I know how to completely disassemble it, I call back I volition completely wipe the firing pin/associates dry out before going to the range over again. I gauge I was a little disapointed with this gun after this dryfire occured. Everyone on this website pretty much say they accept never had a dryfire. Merely I hoping that your theory of heavy oil might be the crusade. Anyways thanks for your response. I will continue y'all updated. |
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| The firing pin and aqueduct on any smith/glock/ m+p needs to exist clean but no lube. Lube past its self would not cause a missfire,unless heavy grease,or dried grease,just it simply serves to attract dirt dust lint carbon etc and form a paste,that when it dries out or gets as well much slows the pin down,dried breakfree was the worst, for that matter I dont like grease on any pistol,merely attracts grit,there are better metallic treatments. |
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| Quote: Originally Posted by D Stone ...I've got the word out to my friends who buy new Glocks and now M&Ps to check before they burn down. I don't think it's a problem but I'm curious. I guess the manufacturers tell you to clean before firing but they don't tell you to detail it. Dave Dave, Subsequently reading this and other replies, I decided to check mine. Yeah, it was pretty well oiled. I doubt it was from me because I tend to use lube sparingly on the slide rails and other parts noted in the transmission. I dab up whatsoever excess so in that location'south never any "loose" oil running around my gun. As soon as I can become some polymer prophylactic gun scrubber I'll clean it all out. |
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| Peter, I was at the range yesterday and talked to someone using Gunscrubber on their Glock. He told me that the formula had been inverse a while back and at present all of it is polymer safe. I don't know if that'due south true simply he told me that's why you lot only see 1 type on the shelves now. Dave Yous could endeavor some on the within of your frame and see if it leaves a marking. I did it on my Thou&P with and didn't see a problem. I would think that a quick spray wouldn't exist a problem simply try what yous have on your frame commencement just to exist safe. |
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| These come pretty oily from the factory, I think due to shipping rust prevention measures. I took both of my new Thou&Ps apart when new and both had some oily stuff present in the fp area. A good cleaning with some solvent and a dry out wipe of the fp and channel, and plasic sleeve, is a good idea when the gun is new then subsequently every 5k rounds or and then. It's never good to oil the firing pivot/fp channel for the reasons given in other responses to this post. __________________ |
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| Are any special tools needed to accept out the f/p? I've never taken one out of whatever of my firearms, but now yous all are making me recollect I should check my new 40c, just in case. I do accept the 40FS armors guide, but oasis't actually looked it over yet. Is it a adequately simple process? __________________ |
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| Information technology's pretty piece of cake. Y'all need a small punch or dull screw driver to move the striker sleeve forrad. That takes the tension off the slide cover plate so yous can remove it. Hither's a link to an M&P Armor's Manual. Whorl downwards 'till you meet it and download the PDF. Should help with pics. Dave |
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| Dave - Thanks for the info! __________________ |
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